Cage diving with sharks in South Africa

As dawn broke, we blasted out of the same narrow gully, with two engines at full throttle. We marveled at how easily the feisty ‘Barracuda’ breached the huge swells, and how the sea gave us the roller coaster ride of our lives. Once through those swells, from our perch on the top deck, we sat back to enjoy views of the stunning South African coastline. Dramatic mountains appeared to rise mystically from the sea, covered in shimmering haze, and fringed by savage waters battering the rocks below.

Anchoring in Van Dyks Bay

Before long, we anchored close to a few other boats and Heinrich started our briefing. A weathered South African, with a very British sense of humour, he put any fears to rest with jokes about shark bait. I think he was talking about us!

There’s no joking however when it came to safety. The instructions for safe use of the cage were repeated twice, which I’m grateful for considering I have the attention span of a gnat.

Attracting the sharks

Before long, staff lower the cage into the water and ease it into place on the side of the boat. They tether it tightly to the side and Heinrich gives orders to the staff. The crew, in oilskins, chum the water to attract the sharks. This combination of fish parts, bone and blood is designed to replicate the smell of food without actually feeding the sharks. Feeding is strictly prohibited in South Africa to protect the natural behaviour of the sharks. It creates a pungent slick on the water which the sharks can smell from miles away.

It doesn’t take long to attract their curiosity as an excited cry signals their arrival. A whopping shark cruises gracefully into sight and tries to chew the rope. John captures the perfect shot of this majestic creature rising from the depths, jaws wide open like a scene from a movie. Wow, our first shark is one of the biggest I’ve ever seen.

Into the blue

Heinrich urges the first group of divers into the cage to enjoy the display of shark behaviour in its full ferile glory. Michala did such a great job of being our group photographer for the day that I’m going to let her photos do the talking. It’s hard to describe how breathtaking is the beauty and grace of this huge creature.

We are also fortunate enough to see a huge stingray glide by the cage. Also a member of the shark family, these creatures are as graceful as any ballerina and I’m mesmerised.

Into the cage

Before long, it’s our turn to jump into the cage. It has seven compartments, one for each diver and padding along the top and back. We lean back in the cage and only put hands, knees or feet on the yellow safety rail. Whenever a shark is spotted, the deck hands urgently shout ‘down, down’ and we drop hurriedly into the chilly waters. We peer myopically through the holes trying to glimpse these huge predators. Be warned, sharks wait for no one and if you take too long to manoeuvre into place, you will be disappointed. Jason and I repeatedly popped up shaking our heads whilst others chattered excitedly about what they had seen.